Faimafilli is not the flashest or the largest resort on Upolo’s south coast but it may well be the friendliest. Nothing is too much trouble for Tim and the team. We were lucky enough to score an over-water villa on an Expedia deal and it was perfect for us. Large, comfortable, cool and quiet, we felt like we were living like kings – but the standard villas look fine also. No hot water but, being Samoa, the cold water was plenty warm enough! The beach here is gorgeous, with natural rock outcrops splitting the sandy beach into four little ‘coves’. The snorkelling is great – accessible whatever the tide – and we were lucky enough to twice see a turtle. And it’s 10 minutes by car from the Savaia marine reserve and its giant clams and coral.
Don’t come here if you want a large resort with pools, courts and swim-up bars, every mod-con, though we have to say the Friday night culture show and the Sunday ‘toonai’ (hangi) were outstanding. The place has clearly changed for the better since last year's management change but is still developing: A few more over-water villas and a pool are planned – but I doubt they’ll change its laid-back character. If you want to chill under the sun and in the water, if you value a bit of peace and quiet, to lay back and forget the stuff you left home to forget, this place is perfect.