Visit Hôtel Dieu to see one of the most iconic images of Beaune, the building’s beautiful tiled roof. While it looks palatial, Hôtel Dieu was built as a humble hospital for the poor. The hospital opened as the Hospices de Beaune in the 15th century and welcomed patients until the late 20th century, when it became a museum. The building features soaring ceilings, ample skylights and a beautiful courtyard, which is a great place to admire the intricate pattern of the roof.
Learn about how the hospital was founded by Chancellor Nicolas Rolin in 1443, as the Hundred Years' War was coming to an end. He hoped the hospital would survive for generations. To plan for its future, he placed the hospices under the management of the Holy See and left it a rich endowment of vineyards and farms. The hospital received its first vineyard donation in 1457. For decades, the winery has held an auction in November to fund hospital maintenance and new equipment.
Before entering Hôtel Dieu, stroll around the exterior to look at the spectacular roof. Notice how the sparkling tiles are a beautiful example of the polychrome roof tradition in Beaune. The ceramic tiles are colored in brilliant yellow, green, red and brown and are laid out in a pattern that many visitors say resembles a snakeskin.
Take a tour of the building to imagine its days as a hospital. Walk through the large ward, the kitchen and the chapel, which originally held the famous altarpiece The Last Judgement by renowned Northern Renaissance painter Rogier van der Weyden. The altarpiece now hangs in the museum. Among the most interesting exhibits is the medieval pharmacy, which displays some of the cures that were used at the time.
Today, the hospital owns about 150 acres (60 hectares) of vineyards. The auction still takes place each November. Now coordinated by Christie’s, the proceeds go toward conserving the building.
Visit Hôtel Dieu any day of the week, but note that it closes for lunchtime. Discounts are available for children and students.
