Nestled as it is between tall, sleek financial towers, the Man Mo temple is easy to miss. This hidden treasure of Hong Kong’s cultural world is definitely worth a visit, however. With white walls, green tiles and a classic design, the temple cuts a contrasting figure in the Sheung Wan district. Pause a moment to take in the scent from the incense coils hanging outside, huge scented spirals that burn far longer than the standard small joss sticks do. And then head in to this memorable place of worship.
As you pass through the tall red doors into the temple you will notice large statues of two different deities. This temple is both Buddhist and Taoist, and it is devoted to both the god of literature (Man) and the god of war (Mo). Mo is red, and carries a sword Man, in green, wields a calligraphy brush instead. Students would worship these two gods in tandem, hoping for success in Imperial China’s civil examinations.
Look out for two other important buildings in the Man Mo complex. The Lit Shing Kung area is dedicated to the worship of all heavenly gods. Kung Sor, by contrast, was used as an assembly hall for locals to resolve their dispute using ritual animal sacrifices. A promise written on paper, dripped with chicken blood and then burned was said to carry more weight in those days than a decision from the British court of law.
After visiting Man Mo Temple, take the stone steps of Ladder Street back toward Sheung Wan, stopping by souvenir shops along the way. Otherwise head further along Hollywood Road to the trendier stores and restaurants of Soho.
Man Mo Temple is open every day until early evening, when it closes to the public. The complex is about 15 minutes’ walk from the Sheung Wan MTR station. It is also a short walk downhill from the Victoria Peak tram stop.