Today it’s not likely that someone would choose Times Square for the site of a church , but Times Square wasn’t the place it is now when the Church of Saint Mary the Virgin was built in the 1870s. Its gray stone façade and French gothic style are certainly surprising when contrasted to the orange-red brick buildings that hem it in on either side. Enter to understand how its traditionalist style makes sense. Known as “Smoky Mary’s” for its copious use of incense, it brings a particular type of traditionalist Anglo-Catholicism (still Protestant) to the bustling world of Midtown Manhattan.
To properly appreciate St. Mary’s, spend some time first in the cacophony of Times Square, with its sensory overload of flashing lights and crowds of people. Walk a few streets away to the church. Appreciate the sense of calm that emanates from the limestone entrance. Slip inside and look up at the ceilings, with vaults painted blue with glittering gold stars.
Admire the architectural precision of the vaulting, built like a skyscraper, with a steel frame. It was the first church in the world to be constructed with this new technology. Each chapel is filled with works of art.
During the daily Mass, sit in one of the pews and appreciate the ritual spectacle, conducted most days with organ and choir, celebrating both religion and the beauty of the space.
Steps from Times Square, the Church of Saint Mary the Virgin is also easily accessible from a variety of locations throughout the city. Walk from Grand Central Terminal in 13 minutes or take the subway in 9 minutes. Penn Station, with train connections throughout the region, is a 15-minute walk or 8-minute subway ride away. Nearby Times Square Station serves almost all of New York’s subway lines. Driving is not recommended as parking is often almost nonexistent. Taxis and ride-share services are easy to find.
The church is open to visitors daily from early morning to evening, with Mass celebrated daily. Opening hours are shortened on Sundays and federal holidays. There is no entrance fee.
